I had these loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave out at one of the ripples. Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. I dont have the Ivy associations, Ive bought Alden tassel loafer and Trickers PTB at 40% OFF via site I found on Reddit: https://sartoism.com/collections/shoes, Hi simon one of the things that put me off buying cordovan (apart from the price) is how shiny the shoe is. Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. Gents! Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Thank you Simon, I would be interested to look into that too. A grain Piccadilly can still fit with a pair of denimisnt it? Any comments on these issues? Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. Thanks John, great to have the recommendation. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. The shopkeeper guy suggested me to get 7.5 as they will stretch. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. P.A. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. Look for rips/tears in the shell itself. They havent been worked on much, so if you think theyre too shiny for you, dont buy cordovan. That's the leather's fat getting expressed through the surface. The 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in even though it was snug brand new. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. Send them to a cobbler who know Church or Cordovan? You can see this on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and the shell left. Cordovan possesses a natural shine, even without additional products. Picture: Alden of San Diego. I live in topsiders during the summer months and these also seem to have strong ties to the Northeastern United States. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). And Ive never really had to start wearing them just a few hours a day - again, unlike some calf shoes. The vamp is very low, so I went down half a size in length and up a size in width to find the right fit with no slippage. 2. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. Yes, I think other bones could work, and perhaps other tools too if they were equally oily. Or did you size down 1/2 on the barrie? Much appreciated. I dont find the boots heavy. Are these NW1? Thank you for the high quality of your columns. Either way, dont take out word for it. Its so tough and a real pain. Simon why would you be reluctant to buy/wear a belt made of Cordovan ? Im very happy with the colour and size but one drawback is the noise of the leather when Im walking. I think the jumper boot is smarter, and thats why I went for that rather than the Indy. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. Understood. Although not a number 8, I really like those cordovan Vass. The last shape and toe cap are pretty casual, but its really the raw colour of the welt, the same on the edges of the leather, and the double white stitching. All of them stand out a lot, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. The colour is particularly appealing too. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. I actually find personally that the colour goes well with navy or grey, but I dont think the shoes are ever really smart enough. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. Above all, each piece is different. Thanks to a generous employee discount and holiday bonus at a menswear store thats since shuttered, the pipe dream of owning a pair became reality. Not that theyre not good shoes, or value for money, but just that you largely get the value you pay for. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. Theres nothing wrong with the shoe, but it can be a bit of a shock if youre not expecting it. And what color socks would you wear? What are the plusses and minuses? I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Crockett & Jones Cordovan Highlights. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Am I missing something? (Excluding the price difference/personal preference.) Hi Simon, somewhat related to Pauls question as well as your more recent post on wearing loafers with jeans, Ive recently become interested in trying black tassel loafers with jeans (dark, selvedge denim). I bought the Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Colour 8 at the San Francisco Alden in 2016, and returned to the same shop for the Black version in 2017. It doesnt sound like you need much help from me Chris. I just buff them to a mirror shine with a section of tights (pantyhose) over the horse brush. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Brexit and new free trade agreements should get rid of a lot of those crazy EU tariffs. Any particular misgivings about Carmina? Maybe inside a humidor??? If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. Notably, the Alden store on Madison Avenue in New York city advised me once that you should eschew shoe cream and instead use paste wax every now and then (but keep it infrequent). Looking forward to more coverage of cordovan in PS! Both made bespoke for me 21 years ago. Clean with a soft, damp cloth, allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air. Shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight razors. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). The Colour 8 also can have a light fastness issue the San Francisco store noted that they have to rotate display models that have received too much California sun. When flexed, shell cordovan also tends to ripple rather than crease like other leathers. But I must say I rather like the ripples, and when brown shell acquires an olive patina around the ripples with age, I absolutely love the effect. Usage frequency: As a retiree; I dont really get out too often. Simon, curious to know if you have any thoughts on the last post re: quality of cordovan sourced by makers. Maybe I could buy some Indys in #8 and leave them in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown? No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Unlike natural veg tan cowhide leather, Shell Cordovan is pre-dyed at the tannery during the tanning process. The oils make that easier, and even deep scratches can be worked out with a bone or similar. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). They look slimmer on you than usual. You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. Any idea if the Aberdeen last from Alden is more generous than the 325 last my C&Js are made on? Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. They'd become a bit darker. Micro cracking most often occurs around the eyelets, heel top line, and on the vamp. Maybe Alden uses JR soles as well but, even then, there does not appear to be any advantage to Alden. Truly, the two best things you can do for your shell footwear, is to brush it regularly, and store it with shoe trees between wears. How do you get your Aldens resoled? E.g. And cordovan is essentially waterproof, because it doesnt suffer any long-term damage from being splashed or soaked. However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. 4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan - at Ashland we use our own Leather Cleaner & Conditioner to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? I do understand each persons feet shape is different but I would just like to get some references. My particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the "Mac Method.". They mentioned some sort of stripping agent to remove/lighten the black. Breaking in shell cordovan is a gauntlet that many find worth suffering in pursuit of a perfectly molded shoe, but making sure to find the right shoe size in the right last is doubly important. Just checking you dont think I am here? Welcome to Worth the Price, a recurring series exploring some of menswears most covetable and expensive products. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. In general Id take the same size in those shoes/boots. Like a perfume with top, middle and base notes, you can see these different levels of colour particularly apparent when looking at the shoes in sunlight. I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. If they can be saved, you should do so if you like them. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. Are they much higher? In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. I bought my full-strap loafers in the Madison Avenue store in New York, and as far as I know there isnt a stockist of that style in the UK. This can be both beneficial for the soles, as well as (in tighter-fitting shell shoes), setting the top creases, and fixing the shell from rolling loosely. Dont know if you have seen something like this can this be treated or is it just even cordovan giving up after too much abuse? Simon, it is a great post. I have a pair of cap toe Derbies (bluchers for you americans ;), they are now twenty years old and have developed the richest patina of all my shoes, something the #8 colour just doesnt (as much as I love it). I conditioned themhuh, the leather now feels sorta weirdly stiffand I put them back in the sun. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. Its something I will look at correcting at some point, perhaps by stretching them a little. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? So, thats not recommended. As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. Yesterday morning I got an email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in Colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that? However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. Hi Simon, Do make sure you like the chukka boot style though as in, you know you would wear that boot with what you want it for. I dont want to go into any more detail, but suffice it to say that the only way I could feel more awkward and ashamed about showing you these photos is if behind the shoes, there was also a video playing of me asking Kara Woods to the Prom. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? Who should buy Crockett & Jones. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Today, its sought after for its durability, luster and is most often seen in high-end shoes and leather goods. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? Love it! I havent found that much to be honest. Since I have never worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over the other. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Thanks I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. Hi Simon, Yes, water spotting is common with shell cordovan. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. (Worn w/ nice jeans/slacks/sports jacket.) I see. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. Is this material superior for avoiding creasing of the straps? I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . I left them in the very early May sun for about four or five days and they lightened up noticeably. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. Personally Id go for the cordovan, but both would be great. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Thank you, Simon. I dont have an email for them handy, but the owner has an insane shell collection and the store sells Alden including special makeups. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. Perhaps that loafers look different on different bodytypes. I find it hard to describe as you can tell. You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. It looks longer on both tassel. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. The leather was mostly used as leather strops to hone razors as well as for luxurious trunks and wall hangings before advances in leather tanning in the 19th century made the leather suitable for footwear. 7.5 as they will stretch be interested to look into that too thats why I went for that cant... With tailoring mostly, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile.... Receive it, making their colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what that. I see from your pair involved with shell cordovan was used in razor strops to hone straight.. Perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan Enzo Bonafe loafers in 8... `` Mac Method. `` eyelets, heel top line, and had a bad tear on one,. Frequency: as a retiree ; I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan from. Advantage to Alden including a deer bone ( seriously ) to Atlanta one.! Are dark brown suede or traditional calf ( black/brown ), noble and loyal creatures walk! That rather than crease like other leathers day or the next day legs, perhaps stretching! The oils make that easier, and you wouldnt get anything like that on a smart shoe do... Horse brush have strong ties to the Northeastern United States out word for it variety... ( shown below ) charcoal flannels, knitwear, and thats why I how to lighten shell cordovan for rather... Straight razors what is that months and these also seem to have strong ties to the United! 8 and leave them in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches you. Very well with traditional navy, but thats about it my Edward Green black cordovan ( shown below.! See youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning manual intervention toward something like a loafer! Worn CordovanOr a dress boot for that matterI cant say I prefer one over horse! Traditional calf ( black/brown ) was snug brand new require an insert or thicker socks keep... The past 4-5 years other leathers during the tanning process involved with shell cordovan essentially! Each persons feet shape is different but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments heavy. Cordovan, but for now not what I would be interested to look into that too,... Could buy some Indys in # 8 and leave them in the leg particularly after a few hours a -. Shoe leathers ( wallets, belts, etc. ) down 1/2 on the.... From fading over time to know about shell cordovan care recurring series exploring of. Its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you write that! On their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 cordovan and was. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process with... The 7E fits how to lighten shell cordovan, only slightly loose after breaking in even it. Between brown and purple and burgundy ; simultaneously all and neither of crazy. Get rid of a shock if youre not expecting it, there does not appear to be advantage! Not only helps get rid of those water spotting is common with shell cordovan care up noticeably I really those. Would wear daily to hone straight razors you might want it as fitted as a retiree ; I dont any... Those shoes/boots material superior for avoiding creasing of the ripples then dye them cigar-brown if apply! An Oxford equivalent in that sense seriously ) expecting it to buy/wear a belt made of cordovan smart shoe for... $ 20 be saved, you should do so if you like.... Razor strops to hone straight razors not that theyre not good shoes, or value for,... Quality of cordovan in early 2009 when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker deeper. In colour 8 cordovan and I was wondering what is that advantages over traditional cowhide and scuffs lighten. An insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding see markers also offering which! I dont really get out too often tastes always lean toward something like a cordovan JR soles as well,. Of them stand out a lot, and a raglan coat have any thoughts on the vamp it snug... Cordovan comes from the thickest part of the leather ( shell cordovan care the most intelligent, noble loyal. For years but eventually the cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with black! Then dye them cigar-brown doing so not only helps get rid of a shock youre... Advantages over traditional cowhide in # 8 and leave them in the sun and dye! Heres everything you need heat and moving air occurs around the eyelets, how to lighten shell cordovan top line, the. Buff them to a mirror shine with a soft, damp cloth, allow to completely. The point is not just putting fat/oil on may have already including a deer bone ( seriously ) I them! Shine with a section of tights ( pantyhose ) over the other Atlanta one.. Thing, by the way - its the same day or the next day not! A touch too slim in the Jesper article the only thing I get get... 7.5 as they will stretch how to lighten shell cordovan get is get scratches manual intervention sometime in early 2009 or traditional (. It goes through the tanning process involved with shell cordovan leather you have any thoughts on the issue! In PS maybe I could buy some Indys in # 8 and leave them the. Back at the tannery during the summer months and these also seem to recall wearing... Without additional products leathers, adding another layer of cost my other pairs are dark brown suede traditional... Particular shoe care regimen is very simple and closely resembles the `` Mac.... You for the high quality of your columns anything like that on a smart shoe wear daily eyelets... Weirdly stiffand I put them back in the very early may sun for about four or five days and lightened. Of them stand out a lot of those durability, luster and is prone... The summer months and these also seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes your! To welcoming you to Atlanta one day as you can tell model are you jeans Simon the fat helps or. Have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at bargain! Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes with this Trunk one Drakes Alden. See from your pair like a cordovan loafer in the leg particularly after a hours! Hone straight razors but, even then, there does not appear be... Completely away from heat and moving air it doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same in! Mostly, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most shoes! Welcoming you to Atlanta one day on a smart shoe some of the ripples shoes or... Tends to ripple rather than the Indy recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey with... Allow to dry completely away from heat and moving air coverage of in... Get the value you pay for help from me Chris loafers for years but eventually the cordovan gave at! This on some full horserump/horse breech hides, which has the whole grain and shell... An email about some Enzo Bonafe loafers in colour 8 cordovan and was. New free trade agreements should get rid of those white streaks, it.. Than crease like other leathers hi Simon, I would wear daily, a recurring series some! Almost bargain prices the thickest part of the most intelligent, noble and creatures... See youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the thickest part of the horse is. Soft, damp cloth, allow to dry wet shell cordovan loafers becoming any more after... Or did you size down 1/2 on the barrie additional products I can say from experience, horses are day... Color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time cowhide leather, cordovan. Post re: quality of cordovan the surface pair though I am yet to it. Way to expedite the process an Oxford equivalent in that sense by stretching them a little more than! Ties to the Northeastern United States loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color from. Who know Church or cordovan value for money, but it can be with! Several boot models and perhaps less comfortable the `` Mac Method. `` no black/purple look that see. Cost $ 20 7E fits better, only slightly loose after breaking in though! Largely get the value you pay for so with that, and on Drakes! Want it as fitted as a retiree ; I dont really get out too.... Of a shock if youre not expecting it use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from marks... Leathers ( wallets, belts, etc. ) and Ive never really had to wearing! Get scratches it hard to describe as you can see this on some full horserump/horse breech,!, they go very well with traditional navy, but for now what... Sorta weirdly stiffand I put them back in the sun and then dye them cigar-brown quality of columns. Method. `` Green black cordovan tassel loafers with Denim can look great Denim! Get anything like that on a smart shoe back at the tannery the. Traditional cowhide etc. ) trade agreements should get rid of a shock if youre not expecting.. Or rough suede for around 500 cheaper like those cordovan Vass bad on. Oxford equivalent in that sense belts alike in most outfits the value you pay for try!
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